Life is a Wirlwind

I really don't know how people it all.  I always thought that things would get more stream lined throughout life; I would just get better at what I already do and then as new stuff came along it would just be taken into the fold of  my life.  Not, so.  What a total fallacy that was -- for me that is.  With the total decline of our economy I have had to resign myself to working more and climbing much less.  I have a great woman in my life now too and we are looking at making a family.  To top it off, I founded a climbing gym in my home town that takes much of my time and energy.  I did this because I couldn't travel and climb cause of the loss of revenue in my business.  But, I am not deterred from continuing to climb.  I have friends who climb a lot and have families.  It may not work out that way for me I have to admit.  It may just get harder, because I am choosing to go down the family and kids path at the age of 38.  But, there are points of light in this process that would say otherwise.

Started a non-profit bouldering gym in my home town has taken a lot of time and energy from my person climbing time.  But, since then my overall climbing skills have jumped dramatically having a place to train when I can't go off to Canada or other places to climb ice in the winter.   At least I will be strong for a summer season of rock and alpine.  I don't see this year being much better from me financially, but those local mountain projects will be getting done cause I can't afford to pay the gas to travel.  Plus, I have a partner that is totally committed to us being a climbing family.  She sees us traveling and climbing and even hiring a nanny to go with us!  We are smart and capable with good ideas on how to thrive in this crap economy that just doesn't appear to be getting any better any time soon.  Because, I don't want to be left in the shadow of this peak oil, green revolution, cap and trade, etc revolution that will leave millions if not billions more people in the have-not category.  I grew up during the time of cheap gas and remember how we traveled and explored for many miles across the western landscape.  I talk with friends who climbed in the 80's.  People who didn't make a lot of money, cause you didn't have to to make a trip to the Valley or the Bug's.  It's not so these days.  As we move into this brave new world there will be far less to explore not because it's not out there but, because we just can't go for it anymore, unless you are one of the privileged people who have the means given to them by families who made their wealth on a bygone economy.  So many of the conversations I over hear or listen to on the radio or TV and with friends seem to have the opinion that we the people of this country are a the problem and not the solution.  As long as we believe such rubbish, the dark shadow of lost liberty and poverty will continue to grow over our country.   So, I guess I have to just keep fighting for the things that matter to me:  God, Family, Country, and Climbing!  And, the freedom to pursue all of them  unfettered by financial and regulatory burdens of an over reaching federal government whose policies, from all I can see, are two faced and benefit only the wealthy and politically connected and saddle a majority of the country (the middle class) with these burdens.

In Boulder for the National Indoor Climbing Conference

Just flew in to Denver picked up my rental car and headed downtown for coffee and food.  What an early flight. 6:30 am was way too early.  But, It got me in town at a good hour to get oriented.  Found a great place to have coffee and a B-borrito; the Common Grounds on 17th and Wazee.  And the coffee is really good.  Roasted right on the premises.  Rich, full, and on the sweet side.  Had an Americano and It didn't need anything.

The berrista asked me what I was in town for and she got very excited.  She talked of her first trip to a climbing gym.  And, she had only climbed outside which I found to be funny because its usually the other way around.  I love talking about the bouldering gym.  It gets everyone amped, intrigued.  People want to know the story behind starting a non-profit climbing gym.  And, I like talking about it.

She told me about being a local and told me if I had the time I should drive Hwy 93 along the foothills to Boulder next.  I plan to take her up on the idea.  I have 4 days before the conference.  Climbing, people, and scenery.

First Organizing meeting for Sandpoint's newest climbing club and gym

Some weeks ago I drew up an idea for a non-prophet climbing gym in Sandpoint, ID and put it out to my circle of friends to see what kind of interest there was.  I was surprised to find out that many were psyched on the idea and will to help make it happen.  Last night we had our first organizing meeting and it went very well.  7 out of the 10 I asked to come made it.  We had a good meeting and people stepped up and took in group tasks.  Everyone felt that $100 would be OK to contribute to financing the club gym.  Next week we will meet again and discuss topics such as Design, gathering moneys, gym/club name, resources gathered/needed, insurance cost, along with other topics and preview the building where we will build it..  We are on our way to having Sandpoint's first climbing Gym!  Stay tuned.

My Nephew Aaron's new album: Simple Things

Hey everyone.  I just want to introduce my nephew Aaron Christeinson who has a new album out.  Click on the link below to listen and enjoy -- the kid has talent.

http://cllct.com/art/mtjoy

More pics of the Pipestone Bowl avilanche

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Two skiers remotely triggered a large size two in Pipestone Bowl today.

If you are interested in staying up to date on mountain conditions in Canada get on the MCR mailing list.
The avi season is her so be on your A-game!!  


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Today's Topics:

  1. Pipestone Bowl Skier Remote (Public Mountain Conditions Report)


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Message: 1
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 2009 17:12:36 -0700
From: Public Mountain Conditions Report <mcr@informalex.org>
Subject: [MCR] Pipestone Bowl Skier Remote
To: mcr@informalex.org
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       <OFECB11C66.13474512-ON8725766E.0000C419-8725766E.00012784@pc.gc.ca>
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Two skiers remotely triggered a large size two in Pipestone Bowl today.
There were no involvements but the second skier had a narrow escape when
his partner alerted him to the avalanche and he skied out of the way.

Full depth release on October CR/FC layer.


Brad White
Mountain Safety Programs Specialist
Banff, Kootenay and Yoho National Parks
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I just want to give a shout out to Lacey LaDuke a great young talented photographer from Post Falls Idaho. Thanks for sending me the pics. Check her shit out at flickr.com she is going places with her work.

Syringa boulder "The Bread Loaf"

I have been working this boulder problem on the Upper Syringa mtn bike trail. Fun lowball traverse. Thin feet and sloper hands with a muscle up for a top out. Fun problem. Throw on the running shoes and get your cardio along with a good pump. It's a good climb.

Getting there. Hike the

trail until you come to the "Y" where you have a choice to head straight down to the Power line right of way head down the hill until you get almost to the bottom then cut into the trees (west) and catch the trail again. Head up the hill until you get to a large long rounded boulder that looks much like the heal of a round loaf of bread. Climb the steep side in the cleft. Bring a brush, I didn't get all the lichen off yet.

I know it seems like a long way to go for one boulder. Well, its North Idaho, the granite is well glaciated. But, these boulders are fun for a little afternoon outing. And the problems are usually really hard so you are only going to get to work one one anyway. Speaking of running and bouldering. I am planning on doing my granite ridge biathlon if anyone is interested. You can imagine what it entails

New GriGri technique

Dailymotion - Share Your Videos

Climbing at Stone Hill Montana

Sending, Eat Your Spinach


My friend Marc took this video of me climbing Eat Your Spinach and I did the editing, this was last year around July I think. Genie was belaying. Its pretty good footage for a digital camera, and my first time editing video. I plan on taking a video camera on more climbing trips this summer to document that great places I climb. Definitely more interesting to check out on a blog than just photos. This was a fun climb and invigorating. I skipped a bolt down low opting to use a marginal nut placement instead. My thought at the time was that the bolt was excessive. But, I am not a purist, or ethics monger. I know the climb gets done way more often with the bolt there and I am glad for that. Who wants to have to scrub your favorite climb every year just to hold to some arbitrary standard that only exists in a few climbers minds. So, you have an option solid bolt or iffy nut -- you choose.

Beginer Soloing

This looks like a great way to have a hell of a good day out. Although, I think it would be just easier to bring a rope and skip some of the clips up high for a more exciting whip. In all seriousness, I love their ingenuity. I am sure that all the rigging that went into this safety solo was well worth it. The thrill of the solo is still their, the sense of total commitment. Yet, in the end it is still just another climb without real commitment or consequence. Soloing is the epitome of mastery of the body and the mind as well as spirit. Men and women who taking on such life or death climbs do so knowing what the outcome will be to a great probability having spent a life time training up to such a climb. I guess the philosophical stuff really doesn't matter that much here. Its a great piece of climbing porn and you are, for a split moment lead to believe that when he falls its over -- I love it!

Indian Creek Evolves

Three years ago I made my first road trip to Indian Creek. For years I read about the beautiful and sustained cracks, the great weather, and commradery of the climbing community, and the lack of fees to climb-- an unusual aspect of such a popular place. Growing up in North Idaho I learned climbing on Granite and Diorite of moderate quality. Face climbing and sport being the median genre. I was nervous and excited at the prospect just climbing cracks and broadening my climbing skill set.

Marcus and I drove from Portland the beginning of March glad to leave behind the constant gray rain for some warm desert sun. We arrived in Moab picked up supplies and craged around town wanting to hit as much of all the climbing around Moab as possible. We knew that Indian Creek would take us to task and climbing day after day would be impossible so we planned in trips to the Fisher's and Arches. There is a good natured and relaxed feeling about climbing there that felt right and a little uphoric. Our first day or two we climbed easier routes like twin cracks, Triple Jepordy, and Generic crack. This was a necessary step we felt in order to generate a sense of progression and foster success. We took a rest day then tackled Phantom Sprint on Ecko tour to change things up. We figured that doing a tour on the weekend and then coming back to the Creek would allow the crowds to subside. Unfortunately, the crowds of climbers came in waves despite the passing of the weekend. It was the season there and we weren't the only ones who planned our spring vacation around sun and climbing. The crowds became stifling. I remember waiting in line to get on Super Crack. It felt like a theme park. We just left the popular areas and moved on avoiding the classics. Non-the-less my first trip to Indian Creek is one of my fondest trips. But, I came away with a real understanding of the concerns I skimmed over in climbing magazines; you can read about issues but they have a greater impact once one has experienced it first hand.

I returned in the winter of this year. A stop off on the way back from a month long ice climbing trip in Colorado. A sublime sense of solitude lay over the land. I showed up mid week wondering if I would find anyone to climb with in mid-February. Luckily I met a gentleman from Estas Park hold up in the desert like a hermit. I introduced myself and told him of my plans to tick off some of the classics I was unable to get on a few years ago. I could tell he was living out here hold up at the Bridger Jack camping area just waiting for people like myself to wander through. He was eager to climb with me despite having climbed these routes many times. I reveled in roaming from one buttress to the next unimpeded by anyone else sending routes like Super Crack, 3 am crack, and Battle of the Bulge. Of course, the down side of climbing in the winter is the frigid temps at night and the occational snow storm. I love the solitude and privacy that comes with climbing this time of year. I grew up climbing lonely crags -- plus my hands were well aclimated. I thought about my impact out here, it was close to nill. I felt no more intrucive than a cyote. My impact on this awsume environment was curbed just by timing and a willingness to rough it a little. Hell it was a cake walk after spending 30 + days shaking off the screaming barffies after long pitches and cold belays.

This land dilemma is making its way to all the great recreation places of the west. I have watched many of the places I fish, hunt and climb gated, closed to recreation, or just disappear because of private use/overuse. I have learned the value of developing repore with land owners. It is the right thing to do in our era of land use.

I am saddened at the loss of some of the primitive and wild feel of recreating (Are that are becoming a commodity to be marketed rather than revered) but all things change and land users are as much a contributor as the land owner and buyers, developers and so on. We all play a part in the evolution of land use. Lets face it. These places we covet are as much a commodity with a limit to its use. We are fortunate to have a land owner(s) at Indian creek who will come to the table and debate with us.

The evolution public and private land useage is slow, frustrating, and we most likely will not live to see the full outcome of our actions and contributions. Because, we are redefining the nature of land ownership and public use through these community actions, litigations, and debates.

So, as an individual how do I contribute to the sustainability of our most popular climbing areas? My personal contributions will be as follows: 1) I will climb at Indian Creek during off peak seasons in order to minimize my physical impact. Indian creek is a commodity we all have a stake in in one form or another. So, learning to share it and not recreate, or graze it to death is a community effort. 2) I will comply with all regulations while I am there. So, I will carry out my waste just like I would if I were bigwall climbing -- easy enough. 3) Stay open to all perspectives and be understanding. Because we climb does not make us special in as much as it makes the place special only to us in that way. Therefore, our perspective is only one of many on what makes a place special or unique. I can remember times watching young children playing with a new kitten or puppy. If you don't watch them closely they have the power to love them to death. So, whats your contribution going to be?

Good Judgment Keeps You Alive

This last weekend a friend and I hike into Chimney Rock a local alpine crag in the Selkirks range of North Idaho. I have climbed many of the routes over the years. Some are classics and my regular training routes for bigger objectives in Canada and Yosemite. This weekend I decided to climb Dirty Harry's revenge, a route I may have been on once in my teens. I remembered it being a great climb, but that was the extent of my recollection of the climb. As we made our approach I looked for the routes I knew well; Free Friends, East Face Direct... and used those as land marks to locate our objective. We hiked to the East shoulder of Chimney. From there the perspective that the climb is pictured in the guide book came into view. Our scenic perch revealed the long clean flakes and cracks leading to a long ramp on the West shoulder of Chimney Rock and access to the West face routes.

It was hard to tell from the ground the size of the crack. The guide book described it as a 2 inch crack at its widest. As a rule I always take pro just larger than what the book describes in case there is a discrepancy between the guide book and what actually is.

We made our way up the exposed third class ramps to the base of the first belay of the route; a really bad knife blade tied off ( by the first ascentionists!) and a good blue Metolius TCU. Ah I love climbing in the mountains. Genie settled into the belay after an unnerving scramble. I cast off into onto the fun and strenuous 5.9 lay backing up the long flake of granite. All was going well placed a #1 BD then a green Metolius 4 cam then a my #2 BD. Another ten feet brought me to an obvious good placement for my #3 BD. Glad I brought one more size. I thought to myself. Then, I looked up from my rest stance and saw another 30 feet of 3 to 3.5 inch wide crack looming above. I suddenly realized that this mellow climb just got serious. A fall from that high up would put me past Genie and skipping off the 3rd class slabs below her. I thought about lowering off and just contouring the mountain and rappelling in to retrieve my gear. I also saw the amazing opportunity. I am good on cracks. I thought to myself. Its the best climbing I do. I know that their will be mountains out there I just can't back off of. So, I cast off focused on the moment and all that it will teach me and what I have to give this moment in turn...

Rope drag happens. It's easy when you are under stress to make assumptions that it is your belayer day dreaming. The rope began to pull on my harness 20 feet out from my precious #3 BD. "I need some fucking slack!" I boomed. My voice echoed across the valley. I paused at a good stance, refocused and waited for the rope to loosen, then climbed another 10 feet to a small ledge. There I was able to get in a good #3 Wild Country chalk behind a suspect block-- better than nothing I said to myself. Another 15 feet put me on a big save ledge. I felt a touch queasy like I could have puked if that had gone on much longer. I brought Genie up and immediately apologized for my exclamation. She never heard my cursing just the need for slack. I didn't take the time to re-flake the rope at the belay. thinking I butterfly coiled the rope for the scramble and thought that would be sufficient. The rope became tangled at the moment I needed it the most.


I learned a few very important lessons that day: #1. Although my instincts were right to bring the extra larger size, I still needed more. Guide books are usually just estimations based on first ascent experience and or the authors experience or information gathered by the author. Rarely do climbers bring along their tape measure. This goes for repels, pitch lengths, or that key hold. Things change over time along with perspective and ones ability to recollect. If I had brought a spotting scope I could have seen better the width of the crack and its duration. I would have opted to bring more sizes in the 3 to 3.5 inch range. Instead I experienced and exhilarating lead! Which of course lead me into other important lessons. #2. Maintain focus and composure. Blaming and assuming are forms of power leaks; mental energy better spent on problem solving and physical endurance. I thought I had learned that lesson a long time ago, but I was caught off guard. If the climb had been more at my limit say 10c I might have fallen by not being completely in the moment and making no assumptions or judgments. When you give yourself completely to the experience there is no room for judgments, wishing, or hoping. There, is only pure joy, creativity, and the desire to problem solve. We finished our day off with climbing the Rappel Chimney to the summit where Genie and I enjoyed our first successful trip together up Chimney Rock.

Additions to my pack list for the mountains: a light weight spotting scope and a more open mind to the climb.

Interested in developing better judgement and experience for climbing, or want to climb Chimney Rock? Check out these resources:
Become a member of the AAC and receive Accidents in North America,because some experiences are better read then --well--experienced.
The Rock Warrior's Way by Ivo Inglor- a good book for developing a stronger mind for climbing.
Idaho Rock; a climber's guide to Sandpoint and the Selkirk Range of Idaho