So my friend and I started a new training program compiled by the
Moutian Athlete Program in order to get ready for some of our bigger climbs for this year mainly the
Becky-Chouinard on the West Buttress of the
South Howser Tower. Jason, my partner in suffering these days found the site and bought the big mountain program mainly designed for those looking to climb Denali or something like that. So, we have modified it to suite out rock climbing needs. I encourage anyone and everyone who wants to try their program to buy it and become a member instead of tediously try to poach it from my blog. You will get far more from it and their expertise. What is more, there is a lot in the program that will not be here. So, go to
Mountainathlete.com and get involved -- you will not regret it.
We are now a few sessions in and this record is really for my own sake than yours! Since, I'm am not good at keeping an online journal. I might post some photos or videos, we shall see how much I get into it. I know that if I want anyone (if I ever care that much) to look at this blog it has to have something visual rather than this antiquated 19th century stuff.
Week 1
I missed the first session -- just not on the same schedule with Jason. So, I made it up myself.
May 30th 1st Session 2 Obj: core/ Stamina
Training:
(1) Run 4 miles, moderate pace = comfortable but not easy.
(2) 4 rounds
15/15/15 Low back complex
15/15 low back lunge
15/15 kneeling founder
10x Face down back extensions
15x Hamstring hell each leg
Then we climbed about 30 minutes afterward to simulate what we will feel like while climbing in the mountains. We have a Gym Boss which we use to time continuous climbing sessions. we did one session of 3 minutes continuous bouldering and 3 minutes rest for 5 rounds.
May 31st Session 3 Obj: Stringth
I did this work out at my local gym. They say that you can do these workouts at any gym, but if your gym is as busy as mine then people will just look at you funny and even get pissed because your using up so much damn space. I recommend using a crossfit gym or a gym just dedicated to strength training with a lot of open space all on the same level. Or do what my friends have done and just start our own private small cross fit style gym in a warehouse.
Warm Up:
4 Rounds
Barbell Complex @ 45#
Instep Stretch
Training:
(1) 6 rounds
4x Front Squat - increase load each round until 4x is hard, but doaable, then immediately do,
3x Squat Jumps then
5x Shoulder Scarecrow @ 2.5 #
(2) 6 rounds
8x Hinge lift - increase load each round until 8x is challenging, but achievable
3/3/3 toe touch complex
(3) 4 rounds
20x situps
45 sec. front bridge
5x kneeling plate halfmoon @25#
10x face down back extensions
June 4th Session 4
So, I followed the directions on how to make a Sandbag (weighted military duffle) for the get-ups. It was easy and relatively cheap. I recommend making one rather than trying what Jason did and just take an old dry bag and fill it with sand. He was really jellous when he tried mine. The objective on this work out is Work capacity. I have to tell you just how great it is to define what the objective or goal of your work out is. It is to train me for an extended work load in the mountain of picking up and setting down heavy packs, dragging a sled and just the overall riggers of mountain life. This not only makes those tasks less daunting it also reduces the chances of injury. If only I had this program when I climbed the Salathe 10 years ago. We might not have had to stay an extra day on the wall without water! Of course I wouldn't have such a great story tell either.
Training:
Warm up
5 min Sandbag Get up 60 #
Training:
(1) 8 Rounds for time ( I forgot to time it)
4x sandbag clean and squat each side - 8x total 60#
5x ankles to bar
8x touch/jump/touch
3x scotty bobs 25# (I didn't have the right weight for I did aligator push ups instead)
(2) 4 rounds
15/15/15 low back complex
15/15 low back lunge
10x face down back extensions
(3) 2 rounds
30 sec. jane fonda each leg -- these were tough!
June 5th Session 5 Obj. Strength/ work capacity
Warm Up:
5 rounds
10x back squat 75#
10x push ups
10x situps
Hip flexor + instep stretch
Training:
(1) 6 rounds
5x back squat - increase load with each round until 5x is challenging but doable.
4x Scotty Bobs 25#
3/3/3 toe touch complex
(2) 10 rounds
8x front squats 85#
50x step up @ 20" box
30 sec. rest
Sprint to the rest for each round.
(3) 4 rounds -- Just when you really want to lie down.
10x ankles to bar
5x barbell roll out
5x standing russian twist 25#
10x back extensions
10x Tarzan pulls
June 6th Session 6
After the last session this one felt relatively easy, which, appears to get the goal and thank god cause the legs are toast!
Obj: Strength/ work capacity
Warm Up:
4 rounds -- time 9:55
Barbell complex @ 45#
instep stretch
Training:
(1) 6 rounds -- time 14:40
3 x Curtis P. - increase load each round until 3x is hard, but doable, then immediately ...
2x jumping lunge each leg - explode as high as possible.
2x shoulder Sweep.
(3) 6 rounds (6:04m)
5x Walking Lunge each leg holding dumbbells - increase lad each round until 5x is hard, but doable.
Hip Flexor + Pigeon Stretch.
(4) 5 rounds
30 Sec. 40 foot Shuttle sprint - touch line at both ends.
30 sec rest.
At this point we are deviating from this program and making shit up as we go. I decided that it is too much lower body training for our objectives. And, after exploring the Mountain Athlete website more I found a better program. But, neither of us wants to pay for it right now. My partner is ambitious and spontaneous. I wish he had waited. But, this portion of the all mountain training has been really good for getting a base strength and conditioning. I am real estate and just a few days ago I went and walked 100 acres of mountain side property. I walked the perimeter of the property with elevation gain and loss of 2000ft in 4 hours and never was out of breath even when I was pushing hard up the mountain side. I feel like this is the best thing I have done for my overall conditioning is a while -- far better then just running or the stain master.
